| What a friendly, carefree monk! We felt at | | | | monastery looking for food, adding casually |
| home already, but he wasted no time in | | | | that a monk and nun were both presently |
| getting down to business. He asked me to | | | | taking anti-rabies shots after being attacked |
| remain in the courtyard for a moment while he | | | | on the porch of the sala! Well . . . I was |
| and the other monk escorted Janet to the | | | | relieved to hear that rabies shots were |
| nun's section. Before they left with her, the | | | | available, but not too thrilled about rabid |
| British monk asked if I wanted to say | | | | dogs running loose all over the place. |
| goodbye. . . . Hmm. Why should I say | | | | |
| good-bye? Janet and I were staying at the | | | | We continued about a hundred yards on a |
| same monastery, weren't we? But I did as he | | | | narrow trail through a green cave of dense |
| suggested and said good bye. (You should | | | | foliage with tropical flowers spilling out of |
| never second-guess a British monk). | | | | bamboo thickets; which seemed to be welcoming |
| | | | me, and then, suddenly, there it was - my |
| As I watched her disappear into the trees, | | | | personal little kuti! I had been picturing it |
| which, by the way, happened to be my last | | | | in my mind for months, and it looked simply |
| personal contact with her for months, I | | | | wonderful; quiet, peaceful, just the thing |
| thought back to the train ride, and how | | | | for an itinerate loner like me. |
| apprehensive she was when she noticed the | | | | |
| small, thrown together shelters in the rice | | | | By Western standards, it was tiny, only six |
| fields that farmers used as protection from | | | | feet by seven feet, but more than enough room |
| the monsoons. She was certain that we would | | | | to stretch out. It was made of sturdy timbers |
| end up living in one of these flimsy huts | | | | and perched on stilts seven feet high to keep |
| that afforded zero protection from snakes and | | | | out snakes and ants, with ten steps leading |
| creepy things, and I was right, she was | | | | to a small porch. Inside were a few pictures |
| scared to death. | | | | tacked to the wall, apparently from a |
| | | | previous occupant - an autopsy photo of some |
| But not to fear; her first kuti (hut), | | | | poor chap cut from top to bottom, (a monk's |
| although older, was substantial, made of | | | | aid for contemplating the body), a picture of |
| timbers with a tin roof and perched on stilts | | | | a Buddha image, and a picture of a lotus |
| for protection against her anticipated | | | | blossom. There was also a small, cut-in-half |
| despicable critters. Her fear however was not | | | | tin can that I later used to heat a few |
| entirely without foundation; an active family | | | | tablespoons of water over a candle to shave |
| of seven geckos claimed the hut as well, | | | | with every morning. Probably what the prior |
| causing her to lay awake the entire first | | | | tenant used it for. I mentally thanked him. |
| night curled up in a rigid, fetal position | | | | |
| being careful not to touch the mosquito net | | | | My kuti came complete with two shuttered |
| that hung from the ceiling and which she | | | | windows, to keep out the rain, a mosquito net |
| tucked firmly under her little bamboo mat . . | | | | tied to a ceiling beam, and some candles, |
| . while imagining things crawling all over | | | | matches and incense sitting on an exposed two |
| her. | | | | by four. Small pans of kerosene were |
| | | | fashioned around the bottoms of the exterior |
| Eventually, the nuns gave her a nicer kuti | | | | stilts to discourage ants, scorpions and |
| with only two geckos, and then finally a new | | | | termites, and the roof was covered with tin, |
| and beautiful one with only a single lizard . | | | | a beautiful tin, the sound of rain upon which |
| . . but it was a big one. | | | | will remain with me the rest of my life. My |
| | | | little kuti was perfect! |
| Although Janet and I would see each other at | | | | |
| a distance while attending community | | | | Living at a monastery in Thailand costs |
| meetings, meals and so forth, we weren't | | | | nothing, as long as you follow the rules - |
| permitted to speak with each other without a | | | | one meal a day, etc., and of course you must |
| monk present. Those were the rules; | | | | be on your best behavior. Besides the rules, |
| established so that no misunderstandings | | | | we had to quickly learn a wealth of cultural |
| would arise with villagers who supported | | | | things, for example; exposing the sole of |
| these monks, a support that relied upon | | | | one's foot is akin to exhibiting one's middle |
| mutual trust. The villagers would take care | | | | finger, so I soon learned to sit puppy-up, or |
| of the monks and nuns necessities, and the | | | | flat on the concrete floor of the sala with |
| monks and nuns would devote their lives to | | | | my feet curled demurely underneath - no |
| nothing other than conquering their kileses | | | | furniture or pillows to sit on at Wat Pah |
| (greed, hatred and delusion), and finding | | | | Nanachat! Just wood, concrete, and the jungle |
| enlightenment. The monks and nuns were the | | | | floor. |
| villagers' ideals. | | | | |
| | | | The regional police station would |
| The British monk returned after getting Janet | | | | subsequently hold our passports, which we |
| settled in and handed me the traditional | | | | cheerfully surrendered upon arrival. We |
| small, rolled-up bamboo mat that would serve | | | | couldn't have cared less; our intention was |
| as my sleeping and meditation rug, along with | | | | to stay forever in this paradise that offered |
| an old, dinged aluminum teapot that was my | | | | such a rare opportunity to meditate with |
| water kettle. After a brief stop to fill the | | | | little disruption. |
| kettle at the water barrels, he began | | | | |
| escorting me to the far side of the | | | | The smiling British monk wished me luck, then |
| monastery. | | | | turned and disappeared down the trail. I |
| | | | waved, while at the same time glancing |
| As we were walking along, a mangy dog with a | | | | nervously in all directions for signs of |
| missing ear and absent clumps of fur ran into | | | | snakes, scorpions, or mad dogs, and then made |
| the forest not far ahead. The monk pointed | | | | myself at home in my little kuti, that to me |
| and issued a stern warning to stay away from | | | | was more beautiful than a mansion with |
| stray dogs that might wander about the | | | | gold-plated faucets. |