| Into the Arms of Buddha | | | | meat-on-a-stick' vendor. "No need to heat it sir." |
| It was 5 p.m. and I was stalking an angel on | | | | Next, is Lady. She works with a local artist by |
| temple grounds. As the rain started, I wondered if | | | | delicately charming customers to his postcard |
| she would show herself at all. Chiang Mai's rain | | | | rack. From there they get a close-up look at his |
| patterns are directly correlated with the contents | | | | lovely hand sketched works. I suspect Lady pulls |
| of my purse. The resulting meteorological | | | | in a commission. |
| phenomena means the rain could stop in a matter | | | | Friendly Little Lek hovers at ordinary in the looks |
| of seconds or pour down for days, depending on | | | | department. But every dog is beautiful when they |
| whether or not I'd brought my umbrella. I had not. | | | | sleep in Buddha's arms. |
| Squinting into the droplets, I glared up at the | | | | Not all is perfect. When I first saw Hiccup, I |
| massive Chedi, a Lanna-style stupa which draws in | | | | thought he had just been poisoned. Now I know |
| visitors from across Northern Thailand. Sure it's | | | | the perpetual hack must be a medical problem. A |
| impressive, but what I want to know is: How can | | | | bone lodged somewhere or... I can not say. While |
| you have such a large building sitting there for | | | | not overly social, Hiccup is stunningly photogenic. |
| 700 years and not install any doors? Surely it has | | | | At the front entrance of Chedi Luang are the |
| rained here before. | | | | three Golden Boys. At least I think they are boys. |
| Where to hide? No way would I take shelter in | | | | They rarely stand. This is the first place Khun |
| the two beautiful little buildings in front of me. | | | | Soonthree feeds each evening. Looking at the |
| Stunningly designed, absolutely! But each houses a | | | | girth of the Golden Boys, it's a tad surprising there |
| wax replica of an elderly monk sitting in a clear | | | | is any food left for any other temple dogs. |
| box. File them under "way too real looking" to | | | | Across from them lives Lucy - the Teddy Bear |
| pass time with. What can I say? Lack of blinking | | | | dog. Had you seen her before her haircut, you |
| disturbs me. Beside, if wax can achieve the lotus | | | | would have expected to find seams and a price |
| position, why can't I? | | | | tag. |
| To escape the deluge, my shelter took the form | | | | No one knows exactly how many dogs live at |
| of a gazebo housing three large Buddhas. I would | | | | Chedi Luang, 60+ perhaps. Other notable |
| not be alone. One by one, temple residents | | | | characters include Cookie Monster, whose |
| trickled in. The first went straight to a mat he | | | | cantankerous attitude and dull looks are well |
| obviously kept laid out for these moments. Two | | | | compensated for by the fact that he is the only |
| more just sat down and licked themselves. By | | | | one who actually likes the dull old dry dog cookies |
| the time the skies opened up completely, three | | | | I bring. Apparently others prefer Khun Soonthree's |
| more temple dogs had meandered into the | | | | cooking to mine. |
| shelter. | | | | Living on the north face of the Chedi is Scar and |
| Carrying dog cookies is just something I do. I | | | | her three puppies. Some dogs turn up at the |
| could explain myself, but people either get it or | | | | temple pregnant. Still, her puppies Goldie, Blackie, |
| never will. I tossed five treats out and turned to | | | | and Coco Puff are well cared for. |
| the sixth dog, Lek (Thai for little). She had | | | | The latest I have notice is named, "Oh Crap, |
| vanished. Not possible. Would she go back out in | | | | Where Are My Ears?" Oh Crap..., or Ears for |
| the rain? Is there a dog door in the side of the | | | | short, must be an abandoned pet. He is way too |
| Chedi? | | | | forlorn looking. It's as though he desperately |
| I surrendered Lek's cookie to an antique looking | | | | wants a master. However, he's willing to settle for |
| Weimaraner. Predictably, that's when I spotted | | | | jerky treats - or bigger ears. |
| her. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed her | | | | Chubby, a pseudo red Chow, and Pigeon Chaser |
| sitting in the right hand of a Buddha. She yawned, | | | | top off the list of charmers over at Wat Phan |
| nestled perfectly into Buddha's arms and fell fast | | | | Tau. Pigeon Chaser will pass any domestic chicken, |
| asleep. After six years of visiting Wat Chedi | | | | but heaven help the wild birds if he ever sprouts |
| Luang, the temple still brings a grin to my face. | | | | wings. The young monks at Phan Tau are |
| Must be why I keep coming back. | | | | especially loving toward their smaller population of |
| Angels of Chedi Luang | | | | temple dogs. It is truly a joy to watch them |
| Actually, as the donation box says, "It all started | | | | interact. Saffron robes and happy tails flourish side |
| about ten years ago." Ajarn Rosocon, a teacher | | | | by side. |
| at Chiang Mai's Rajabaht University, decided to | | | | The influence Chedi Luang has on animal lovers is |
| make the dogs of Wat Chedi Luang and the | | | | best summed up by Ann Pierce. A former |
| adjoining Wat Phan Tau her mission. Ajarn is Thai | | | | volunteer with the dogs, Ann has returned to |
| for teacher. Her best lessons were taught at this | | | | California, but wrote this in an email interview: |
| temple complex. Out of a potential hell these | | | | "I cannot begin to articulate the impact the dogs, |
| unique Buddhist sites have been transformed into | | | | Ajarn Rosocon, Khun Soonthree, Wat Chedi Luang |
| a sort of canine Nirvana. | | | | and all the other people I met through my time in |
| Initially, students and friends helped Ajarn | | | | Chiang Mai has had on me. I'm a very different |
| Rosocon care for the dogs. They fed, sterilized, | | | | person because of my experiences. My dream is |
| treated mange, vaccinated... whatever they could | | | | to one day move back to Chiang Mai and continue |
| manage from the pennies (baht) they scraped | | | | helping the animals, no matter how frustrating it is |
| together. The group was determined that the | | | | at times." |
| dogs of Chedi Luang and Phan Tau not suffer the | | | | Getting There |
| life faced by so many abandoned and sick temple | | | | You can take a Tuk Tuk to visit Wat Chedi |
| dogs across SE Asia. | | | | Luang. Most drivers know of this popular temple. |
| In 2005 Ajarn Rosocon unexpectedly died. A | | | | On foot enter the old city from the famous Tha |
| friend, Ann Pierce, and another devoted friend | | | | Phae Gate (east moat gate) and continue straight |
| student Khun Soonthree stepped in. Adopting | | | | up Ratchadamnoen Road about four blocks to the |
| Rosocon's dream as their own, they went | | | | first street light - Phra Pokklao Rd. Turn left. You'll |
| forward, honoring a friend's memory by helping | | | | immediately see the spectacular Teak Wood |
| the helpless. Ultimately, Khun Soonthree became in | | | | Temple of Wat Phan Tau on your right. Take a |
| many eyes the "Angel of Chedi Luang." | | | | look inside. Wat Chedi Luang's larger complex is |
| Touring the Temples | | | | located next door. |
| Wat Chedi Luang has become a refuge not just | | | | Please remember Wats are Buddhist Temples |
| for dogs, but for all animal lovers. If travelers | | | | first and foremost. Dress conservatively and |
| become overwhelmed by the sight and plight of | | | | behave respectfully. They don't have to let the |
| street dogs or simply need a quiet escape they | | | | visitors or the dogs stay. Honor yourself by the |
| visit this 'feel good' temple. Try it yourself. Play | | | | example you set. |
| tourist, take photos, pat a willing pup, or bring a | | | | How Can You Help? |
| picnic - it's all good. Then at 6 p.m. watch for the | | | | Visit Chedi Luang, have a great time, then spread |
| angel. Over a year after Ajarn Rosocon death, | | | | the word. |
| Khun Soonthree still feeds and cares for the | | | | Feeding starts at the main entrance between 5:30 |
| temple dogs. | | | | and 6:00 each night. Stop by and show Khun |
| Word has it she never misses a day. She was | | | | Soonthree your appreciation of her work. |
| there in the rainy season when her own home | | | | Please make a donation in one of the temples |
| flooded several times. She was there in the storm | | | | three Dog Donation Boxes, set up around the |
| when Lek and I sought shelter. Her bright yellow | | | | Chedi. Your money goes to food, vaccinations, |
| rain slicker and massive pot of rice mix carried | | | | mange treatment, sterilization of females (and |
| her through the tempest. If it is 6 o'clock in | | | | males when it can be afforded), and general care. |
| Chiang Mai, she's there right now. | | | | The main Wat is currently undergoing a massive |
| Most people visit Wat Chedi Luang's temple | | | | restoration. Making a donation to support the |
| complex for the impressive ancient Chedi. In | | | | construction work, the temple and the temple's |
| addition, its beautiful grounds are perfect for | | | | school is good for all the residents - two and four |
| strolling, quietly removed from the city's frenzy. | | | | legged (or 3.5 - sorry Stumpy). |
| Vendors offer food and cool drink. Trees and | | | | Getting the Most from Your Visit! |
| benches offer hospitable shade. The adjoining Wat | | | | Never approach any dog that seems reluctant. |
| Phan Tau casts a luminous teak glow over the | | | | Get acquainted slowly with the friendly animals. |
| Buddha images it houses. | | | | Their continued socialization, or at least apathy to |
| Better still, the aptly named "Monk Chat" area | | | | people, keeps them from wearing out their |
| offer travelers a welcoming invitation to pull up a | | | | welcome at the temple. |
| chair and, quite obviously, chat with monks. A | | | | Do not bring too many good tasting cookies: |
| casual atmosphere where international visitors just | | | | bacon, pork rings, a side of beef... The bigger dogs |
| hang out with Buddhist monks is a fabulous forum | | | | will follow and fights can ensue with defenseless |
| for asking questions and learning about one | | | | smaller ones. Dry old dog cookies rate low on the |
| another's lives. In the background the voices of | | | | taste scale. In other words, they are a perfect |
| novice monks echo outward from classroom | | | | cheap way to give snacks to those that will eat |
| windows. | | | | them eventually. If in doubt, donate the money |
| Who's Who? | | | | instead. It goes to the right place. |
| Of course, for a few of us the temples house | | | | Helping Dogs in Chiang Mai |
| one more special treasure - the dogs. Not all are | | | | If you live in Thailand, consider helping change the |
| social. Not all are loyal. Some are downright | | | | world one temple at a time. Get advice form |
| ornery. But to know the "who's who" of Chedi | | | | angels and/or adopt your own temple - with |
| Luang canines adds to the fun of any visit. True | | | | permission of the monks. Make it a family, |
| most tourists barely notice them - except to do a | | | | business, class or club project. Work with a |
| quick sidestep away. Like many regulars, | | | | reputable vet. Dr. Nook in Chiang Mai is aces! |
| however, I've given most nicknames. | | | | Other organizations that help pets in the |
| Take Ren and Stumpy for example. Ren, a | | | | Chiangmai area temples include Lanna Dog Rescue |
| diminutive twig of a dog, is the duo's personality. | | | | and Care for Dogs. Both have web sites and are |
| Stumpy, who has a front leg contorted up | | | | always looking for volunteers or donations of |
| underneath, provides a bit of size (a valuable | | | | funds, foods and materials. |
| asset in the world of temple dog politics) to the | | | | In addition, Care for Dogs also has a wonderful |
| team. Side by side the pair can be found on a | | | | shelter offering adoptions of healthy rescued dogs |
| building patio overlooking the Chedi's north face. | | | | and puppies to good homes. Remember, for each |
| Ren works her magic, charming the visitors with | | | | new pet that finds a family, space is made for a |
| enthusiastic greetings. Then Stumpy shows his | | | | suffering dog to be brought into their facility. |
| handicap, Abracadabra! Any traveler with half a | | | | What a beautiful way to help one - dog at a time. |
| heart makes a beeline for the ubiquitous '5 baht | | | | |