| Into the Arms of Buddha
| |
| | '5 baht meat-on-a-stick' vendor. "No need
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| It was 5 p.m. and I was stalking an angel
| |
| | to heat it sir."
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| on temple grounds. As the rain started, I
| |
| | Next, is Lady. She works with a local
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| wondered if she would show herself at
| |
| | artist by delicately charming customers
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| all. Chiang Mai's rain patterns are
| |
| | to his postcard rack. From there they get
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| directly correlated with the contents of
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| | a close-up look at his lovely hand
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| my purse. The resulting meteorological
| |
| | sketched works. I suspect Lady pulls in a
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| phenomena means the rain could stop in a
| |
| | commission.
|
| matter of seconds or pour down for days,
| |
| | Friendly Little Lek hovers at ordinary in
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| depending on whether or not I'd brought
| |
| | the looks department. But every dog is
|
| my umbrella. I had not.
| |
| | beautiful when they sleep in Buddha's
|
| Squinting into the droplets, I glared up
| |
| | arms.
|
| at the massive Chedi, a Lanna-style stupa
| |
| | Not all is perfect. When I first saw
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| which draws in visitors from across
| |
| | Hiccup, I thought he had just been
|
| Northern Thailand. Sure it's impressive,
| |
| | poisoned. Now I know the perpetual hack
|
| but what I want to know is: How can you
| |
| | must be a medical problem. A bone lodged
|
| have such a large building sitting there
| |
| | somewhere or... I can not say. While not
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| for 700 years and not install any doors?
| |
| | overly social, Hiccup is stunningly
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| Surely it has rained here before.
| |
| | photogenic.
|
| Where to hide? No way would I take
| |
| | At the front entrance of Chedi Luang are
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| shelter in the two beautiful little
| |
| | the three Golden Boys. At least I think
|
| buildings in front of me. Stunningly
| |
| | they are boys. They rarely stand. This is
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| designed, absolutely! But each houses a
| |
| | the first place Khun Soonthree feeds each
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| wax replica of an elderly monk sitting in
| |
| | evening. Looking at the girth of the
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| a clear box. File them under "way too
| |
| | Golden Boys, it's a tad surprising there
|
| real looking" to pass time with. What can
| |
| | is any food left for any other temple
|
| I say? Lack of blinking disturbs me.
| |
| | dogs.
|
| Beside, if wax can achieve the lotus
| |
| | Across from them lives Lucy - the Teddy
|
| position, why can't I?
| |
| | Bear dog. Had you seen her before her
|
| To escape the deluge, my shelter took the
| |
| | haircut, you would have expected to find
|
| form of a gazebo housing three large
| |
| | seams and a price tag.
|
| Buddhas. I would not be alone. One by
| |
| | No one knows exactly how many dogs live
|
| one, temple residents trickled in. The
| |
| | at Chedi Luang, 60+ perhaps. Other
|
| first went straight to a mat he obviously
| |
| | notable characters include Cookie
|
| kept laid out for these moments. Two more
| |
| | Monster, whose cantankerous attitude and
|
| just sat down and licked themselves. By
| |
| | dull looks are well compensated for by
|
| the time the skies opened up completely,
| |
| | the fact that he is the only one who
|
| three more temple dogs had meandered into
| |
| | actually likes the dull old dry dog
|
| the shelter.
| |
| | cookies I bring. Apparently others prefer
|
| Carrying dog cookies is just something I
| |
| | Khun Soonthree's cooking to mine.
|
| do. I could explain myself, but people
| |
| | Living on the north face of the Chedi is
|
| either get it or never will. I tossed
| |
| | Scar and her three puppies. Some dogs
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| five treats out and turned to the sixth
| |
| | turn up at the temple pregnant. Still,
|
| dog, Lek (Thai for little). She had
| |
| | her puppies Goldie, Blackie, and Coco
|
| vanished. Not possible. Would she go back
| |
| | Puff are well cared for.
|
| out in the rain? Is there a dog door in
| |
| | The latest I have notice is named, "Oh
|
| the side of the Chedi?
| |
| | Crap, Where Are My Ears?" Oh Crap..., or
|
| I surrendered Lek's cookie to an antique
| |
| | Ears for short, must be an abandoned pet.
|
| looking Weimaraner. Predictably, that's
| |
| | He is way too forlorn looking. It's as
|
| when I spotted her. Out of the corner of
| |
| | though he desperately wants a master.
|
| my eye I noticed her sitting in the right
| |
| | However, he's willing to settle for jerky
|
| hand of a Buddha. She yawned, nestled
| |
| | treats - or bigger ears.
|
| perfectly into Buddha's arms and fell
| |
| | Chubby, a pseudo red Chow, and Pigeon
|
| fast asleep. After six years of visiting
| |
| | Chaser top off the list of charmers over
|
| Wat Chedi Luang, the temple still brings
| |
| | at Wat Phan Tau. Pigeon Chaser will pass
|
| a grin to my face. Must be why I keep
| |
| | any domestic chicken, but heaven help the
|
| coming back.
| |
| | wild birds if he ever sprouts wings. The
|
| Angels of Chedi Luang
| |
| | young monks at Phan Tau are especially
|
| Actually, as the donation box says, "It
| |
| | loving toward their smaller population of
|
| all started about ten years ago." Ajarn
| |
| | temple dogs. It is truly a joy to watch
|
| Rosocon, a teacher at Chiang Mai's
| |
| | them interact. Saffron robes and happy
|
| Rajabaht University, decided to make the
| |
| | tails flourish side by side.
|
| dogs of Wat Chedi Luang and the adjoining
| |
| | The influence Chedi Luang has on animal
|
| Wat Phan Tau her mission. Ajarn is Thai
| |
| | lovers is best summed up by Ann Pierce. A
|
| for teacher. Her best lessons were taught
| |
| | former volunteer with the dogs, Ann has
|
| at this temple complex. Out of a
| |
| | returned to California, but wrote this in
|
| potential hell these unique Buddhist
| |
| | an email interview:
|
| sites have been transformed into a sort
| |
| | "I cannot begin to articulate the impact
|
| of canine Nirvana.
| |
| | the dogs, Ajarn Rosocon, Khun Soonthree,
|
| Initially, students and friends helped
| |
| | Wat Chedi Luang and all the other people
|
| Ajarn Rosocon care for the dogs. They
| |
| | I met through my time in Chiang Mai has
|
| fed, sterilized, treated mange,
| |
| | had on me. I'm a very different person
|
| vaccinated... whatever they could manage
| |
| | because of my experiences. My dream is to
|
| from the pennies (baht) they scraped
| |
| | one day move back to Chiang Mai and
|
| together. The group was determined that
| |
| | continue helping the animals, no matter
|
| the dogs of Chedi Luang and Phan Tau not
| |
| | how frustrating it is at times."
|
| suffer the life faced by so many
| |
| | Getting There
|
| abandoned and sick temple dogs across SE
| |
| | You can take a Tuk Tuk to visit Wat Chedi
|
| Asia.
| |
| | Luang. Most drivers know of this popular
|
| In 2005 Ajarn Rosocon unexpectedly died.
| |
| | temple. On foot enter the old city from
|
| A friend, Ann Pierce, and another devoted
| |
| | the famous Tha Phae Gate (east moat gate)
|
| friend/student Khun Soonthree stepped in.
| |
| | and continue straight up Ratchadamnoen
|
| Adopting Rosocon's dream as their own,
| |
| | Road about four blocks to the first
|
| they went forward, honoring a friend's
| |
| | street light - Phra Pokklao Rd. Turn
|
| memory by helping the helpless.
| |
| | left. You'll immediately see the
|
| Ultimately, Khun Soonthree became in many
| |
| | spectacular Teak Wood Temple of Wat Phan
|
| eyes the "Angel of Chedi Luang."
| |
| | Tau on your right. Take a look inside.
|
| Touring the Temples
| |
| | Wat Chedi Luang's larger complex is
|
| Wat Chedi Luang has become a refuge not
| |
| | located next door.
|
| just for dogs, but for all animal lovers.
| |
| | Please remember Wats are Buddhist Temples
|
| If travelers become overwhelmed by the
| |
| | first and foremost. Dress conservatively
|
| sight and plight of street dogs or simply
| |
| | and behave respectfully. They don't have
|
| need a quiet escape they visit this 'feel
| |
| | to let the visitors or the dogs stay.
|
| good' temple. Try it yourself. Play
| |
| | Honor yourself by the example you set.
|
| tourist, take photos, pat a willing pup,
| |
| | How Can You Help?
|
| or bring a picnic - it's all good. Then
| |
| | Visit Chedi Luang, have a great time,
|
| at 6 p.m. watch for the angel. Over a
| |
| | then spread the word.
|
| year after Ajarn Rosocon death, Khun
| |
| | Feeding starts at the main entrance
|
| Soonthree still feeds and cares for the
| |
| | between 5:30 and 6:00 each night. Stop by
|
| temple dogs.
| |
| | and show Khun Soonthree your appreciation
|
| Word has it she never misses a day. She
| |
| | of her work.
|
| was there in the rainy season when her
| |
| | Please make a donation in one of the
|
| own home flooded several times. She was
| |
| | temples three Dog Donation Boxes, set up
|
| there in the storm when Lek and I sought
| |
| | around the Chedi. Your money goes to
|
| shelter. Her bright yellow rain slicker
| |
| | food, vaccinations, mange treatment,
|
| and massive pot of rice mix carried her
| |
| | sterilization of females (and males when
|
| through the tempest. If it is 6 o'clock
| |
| | it can be afforded), and general care.
|
| in Chiang Mai, she's there right now.
| |
| | The main Wat is currently undergoing a
|
| Most people visit Wat Chedi Luang's
| |
| | massive restoration. Making a donation to
|
| temple complex for the impressive ancient
| |
| | support the construction work, the temple
|
| Chedi. In addition, its beautiful grounds
| |
| | and the temple's school is good for all
|
| are perfect for strolling, quietly
| |
| | the residents - two and four legged (or
|
| removed from the city's frenzy. Vendors
| |
| | 3.5 - sorry Stumpy).
|
| offer food and cool drink. Trees and
| |
| | Getting the Most from Your Visit!
|
| benches offer hospitable shade. The
| |
| | Never approach any dog that seems
|
| adjoining Wat Phan Tau casts a luminous
| |
| | reluctant. Get acquainted slowly with the
|
| teak glow over the Buddha images it
| |
| | friendly animals. Their continued
|
| houses.
| |
| | socialization, or at least apathy to
|
| Better still, the aptly named "Monk Chat"
| |
| | people, keeps them from wearing out their
|
| area offer travelers a welcoming
| |
| | welcome at the temple.
|
| invitation to pull up a chair and, quite
| |
| | Do not bring too many good tasting
|
| obviously, chat with monks. A casual
| |
| | cookies: bacon, pork rings, a side of
|
| atmosphere where international visitors
| |
| | beef... The bigger dogs will follow and
|
| just hang out with Buddhist monks is a
| |
| | fights can ensue with defenseless smaller
|
| fabulous forum for asking questions and
| |
| | ones. Dry old dog cookies rate low on the
|
| learning about one another's lives. In
| |
| | taste scale. In other words, they are a
|
| the background the voices of novice monks
| |
| | perfect cheap way to give snacks to those
|
| echo outward from classroom windows.
| |
| | that will eat them eventually. If in
|
| Who's Who?
| |
| | doubt, donate the money instead. It goes
|
| Of course, for a few of us the temples
| |
| | to the right place.
|
| house one more special treasure - the
| |
| | Helping Dogs in Chiang Mai
|
| dogs. Not all are social. Not all are
| |
| | If you live in Thailand, consider helping
|
| loyal. Some are downright ornery. But to
| |
| | change the world one temple at a time.
|
| know the "who's who" of Chedi Luang
| |
| | Get advice form angels and/or adopt your
|
| canines adds to the fun of any visit.
| |
| | own temple - with permission of the
|
| True most tourists barely notice them -
| |
| | monks. Make it a family, business, class
|
| except to do a quick sidestep away. Like
| |
| | or club project. Work with a reputable
|
| many regulars, however, I've given most
| |
| | vet. Dr. Nook in Chiang Mai is aces!
|
| nicknames.
| |
| | Other organizations that help pets in the
|
| Take Ren and Stumpy for example. Ren, a
| |
| | Chiangmai area temples include Lanna Dog
|
| diminutive twig of a dog, is the duo's
| |
| | Rescue and Care for Dogs. Both have web
|
| personality. Stumpy, who has a front leg
| |
| | sites and are always looking for
|
| contorted up underneath, provides a bit
| |
| | volunteers or donations of funds, foods
|
| of size (a valuable asset in the world of
| |
| | and materials.
|
| temple dog politics) to the team. Side by
| |
| | In addition, Care for Dogs also has a
|
| side the pair can be found on a building
| |
| | wonderful shelter offering adoptions of
|
| patio overlooking the Chedi's north face.
| |
| | healthy rescued dogs and puppies to good
|
| Ren works her magic, charming the
| |
| | homes. Remember, for each new pet that
|
| visitors with enthusiastic greetings.
| |
| | finds a family, space is made for a
|
| Then Stumpy shows his handicap,
| |
| | suffering dog to be brought into their
|
| Abracadabra! Any traveler with half a
| |
| | facility. What a beautiful way to help
|
| heart makes a beeline for the ubiquitous
| |
| | one - dog at a time.
|
