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Chiang Mai, Thailand's Temple of the Dogs

Into the Arms of Buddha '5 baht meat-on-a-stick' vendor. "No need
It was 5 p.m. and I was stalking an angel to heat it sir."
on temple grounds. As the rain started, I Next, is Lady. She works with a local
wondered if she would show herself at artist by delicately charming customers
all. Chiang Mai's rain patterns are to his postcard rack. From there they get
directly correlated with the contents of a close-up look at his lovely hand
my purse. The resulting meteorological sketched works. I suspect Lady pulls in a
phenomena means the rain could stop in a commission.
matter of seconds or pour down for days, Friendly Little Lek hovers at ordinary in
depending on whether or not I'd brought the looks department. But every dog is
my umbrella. I had not. beautiful when they sleep in Buddha's
Squinting into the droplets, I glared up arms.
at the massive Chedi, a Lanna-style stupa Not all is perfect. When I first saw
which draws in visitors from across Hiccup, I thought he had just been
Northern Thailand. Sure it's impressive, poisoned. Now I know the perpetual hack
but what I want to know is: How can you must be a medical problem. A bone lodged
have such a large building sitting there somewhere or... I can not say. While not
for 700 years and not install any doors? overly social, Hiccup is stunningly
Surely it has rained here before. photogenic.
Where to hide? No way would I take At the front entrance of Chedi Luang are
shelter in the two beautiful little the three Golden Boys. At least I think
buildings in front of me. Stunningly they are boys. They rarely stand. This is
designed, absolutely! But each houses a the first place Khun Soonthree feeds each
wax replica of an elderly monk sitting in evening. Looking at the girth of the
a clear box. File them under "way too Golden Boys, it's a tad surprising there
real looking" to pass time with. What can is any food left for any other temple
I say? Lack of blinking disturbs me. dogs.
Beside, if wax can achieve the lotus Across from them lives Lucy - the Teddy
position, why can't I? Bear dog. Had you seen her before her
To escape the deluge, my shelter took the haircut, you would have expected to find
form of a gazebo housing three large seams and a price tag.
Buddhas. I would not be alone. One by No one knows exactly how many dogs live
one, temple residents trickled in. The at Chedi Luang, 60+ perhaps. Other
first went straight to a mat he obviously notable characters include Cookie
kept laid out for these moments. Two more Monster, whose cantankerous attitude and
just sat down and licked themselves. By dull looks are well compensated for by
the time the skies opened up completely, the fact that he is the only one who
three more temple dogs had meandered into actually likes the dull old dry dog
the shelter. cookies I bring. Apparently others prefer
Carrying dog cookies is just something I Khun Soonthree's cooking to mine.
do. I could explain myself, but people Living on the north face of the Chedi is
either get it or never will. I tossed Scar and her three puppies. Some dogs
five treats out and turned to the sixth turn up at the temple pregnant. Still,
dog, Lek (Thai for little). She had her puppies Goldie, Blackie, and Coco
vanished. Not possible. Would she go back Puff are well cared for.
out in the rain? Is there a dog door in The latest I have notice is named, "Oh
the side of the Chedi? Crap, Where Are My Ears?" Oh Crap..., or
I surrendered Lek's cookie to an antique Ears for short, must be an abandoned pet.
looking Weimaraner. Predictably, that's He is way too forlorn looking. It's as
when I spotted her. Out of the corner of though he desperately wants a master.
my eye I noticed her sitting in the right However, he's willing to settle for jerky
hand of a Buddha. She yawned, nestled treats - or bigger ears.
perfectly into Buddha's arms and fell Chubby, a pseudo red Chow, and Pigeon
fast asleep. After six years of visiting Chaser top off the list of charmers over
Wat Chedi Luang, the temple still brings at Wat Phan Tau. Pigeon Chaser will pass
a grin to my face. Must be why I keep any domestic chicken, but heaven help the
coming back. wild birds if he ever sprouts wings. The
Angels of Chedi Luang young monks at Phan Tau are especially
Actually, as the donation box says, "It loving toward their smaller population of
all started about ten years ago." Ajarn temple dogs. It is truly a joy to watch
Rosocon, a teacher at Chiang Mai's them interact. Saffron robes and happy
Rajabaht University, decided to make the tails flourish side by side.
dogs of Wat Chedi Luang and the adjoining The influence Chedi Luang has on animal
Wat Phan Tau her mission. Ajarn is Thai lovers is best summed up by Ann Pierce. A
for teacher. Her best lessons were taught former volunteer with the dogs, Ann has
at this temple complex. Out of a returned to California, but wrote this in
potential hell these unique Buddhist an email interview:
sites have been transformed into a sort "I cannot begin to articulate the impact
of canine Nirvana. the dogs, Ajarn Rosocon, Khun Soonthree,
Initially, students and friends helped Wat Chedi Luang and all the other people
Ajarn Rosocon care for the dogs. They I met through my time in Chiang Mai has
fed, sterilized, treated mange, had on me. I'm a very different person
vaccinated... whatever they could manage because of my experiences. My dream is to
from the pennies (baht) they scraped one day move back to Chiang Mai and
together. The group was determined that continue helping the animals, no matter
the dogs of Chedi Luang and Phan Tau not how frustrating it is at times."
suffer the life faced by so many Getting There
abandoned and sick temple dogs across SE You can take a Tuk Tuk to visit Wat Chedi
Asia. Luang. Most drivers know of this popular
In 2005 Ajarn Rosocon unexpectedly died. temple. On foot enter the old city from
A friend, Ann Pierce, and another devoted the famous Tha Phae Gate (east moat gate)
friend/student Khun Soonthree stepped in. and continue straight up Ratchadamnoen
Adopting Rosocon's dream as their own, Road about four blocks to the first
they went forward, honoring a friend's street light - Phra Pokklao Rd. Turn
memory by helping the helpless. left. You'll immediately see the
Ultimately, Khun Soonthree became in many spectacular Teak Wood Temple of Wat Phan
eyes the "Angel of Chedi Luang." Tau on your right. Take a look inside.
Touring the Temples Wat Chedi Luang's larger complex is
Wat Chedi Luang has become a refuge not located next door.
just for dogs, but for all animal lovers. Please remember Wats are Buddhist Temples
If travelers become overwhelmed by the first and foremost. Dress conservatively
sight and plight of street dogs or simply and behave respectfully. They don't have
need a quiet escape they visit this 'feel to let the visitors or the dogs stay.
good' temple. Try it yourself. Play Honor yourself by the example you set.
tourist, take photos, pat a willing pup, How Can You Help?
or bring a picnic - it's all good. Then Visit Chedi Luang, have a great time,
at 6 p.m. watch for the angel. Over a then spread the word.
year after Ajarn Rosocon death, Khun Feeding starts at the main entrance
Soonthree still feeds and cares for the between 5:30 and 6:00 each night. Stop by
temple dogs. and show Khun Soonthree your appreciation
Word has it she never misses a day. She of her work.
was there in the rainy season when her Please make a donation in one of the
own home flooded several times. She was temples three Dog Donation Boxes, set up
there in the storm when Lek and I sought around the Chedi. Your money goes to
shelter. Her bright yellow rain slicker food, vaccinations, mange treatment,
and massive pot of rice mix carried her sterilization of females (and males when
through the tempest. If it is 6 o'clock it can be afforded), and general care.
in Chiang Mai, she's there right now. The main Wat is currently undergoing a
Most people visit Wat Chedi Luang's massive restoration. Making a donation to
temple complex for the impressive ancient support the construction work, the temple
Chedi. In addition, its beautiful grounds and the temple's school is good for all
are perfect for strolling, quietly the residents - two and four legged (or
removed from the city's frenzy. Vendors 3.5 - sorry Stumpy).
offer food and cool drink. Trees and Getting the Most from Your Visit!
benches offer hospitable shade. The Never approach any dog that seems
adjoining Wat Phan Tau casts a luminous reluctant. Get acquainted slowly with the
teak glow over the Buddha images it friendly animals. Their continued
houses. socialization, or at least apathy to
Better still, the aptly named "Monk Chat" people, keeps them from wearing out their
area offer travelers a welcoming welcome at the temple.
invitation to pull up a chair and, quite Do not bring too many good tasting
obviously, chat with monks. A casual cookies: bacon, pork rings, a side of
atmosphere where international visitors beef... The bigger dogs will follow and
just hang out with Buddhist monks is a fights can ensue with defenseless smaller
fabulous forum for asking questions and ones. Dry old dog cookies rate low on the
learning about one another's lives. In taste scale. In other words, they are a
the background the voices of novice monks perfect cheap way to give snacks to those
echo outward from classroom windows. that will eat them eventually. If in
Who's Who? doubt, donate the money instead. It goes
Of course, for a few of us the temples to the right place.
house one more special treasure - the Helping Dogs in Chiang Mai
dogs. Not all are social. Not all are If you live in Thailand, consider helping
loyal. Some are downright ornery. But to change the world one temple at a time.
know the "who's who" of Chedi Luang Get advice form angels and/or adopt your
canines adds to the fun of any visit. own temple - with permission of the
True most tourists barely notice them - monks. Make it a family, business, class
except to do a quick sidestep away. Like or club project. Work with a reputable
many regulars, however, I've given most vet. Dr. Nook in Chiang Mai is aces!
nicknames. Other organizations that help pets in the
Take Ren and Stumpy for example. Ren, a Chiangmai area temples include Lanna Dog
diminutive twig of a dog, is the duo's Rescue and Care for Dogs. Both have web
personality. Stumpy, who has a front leg sites and are always looking for
contorted up underneath, provides a bit volunteers or donations of funds, foods
of size (a valuable asset in the world of and materials.
temple dog politics) to the team. Side by In addition, Care for Dogs also has a
side the pair can be found on a building wonderful shelter offering adoptions of
patio overlooking the Chedi's north face. healthy rescued dogs and puppies to good
Ren works her magic, charming the homes. Remember, for each new pet that
visitors with enthusiastic greetings. finds a family, space is made for a
Then Stumpy shows his handicap, suffering dog to be brought into their
Abracadabra! Any traveler with half a facility. What a beautiful way to help
heart makes a beeline for the ubiquitous one - dog at a time.




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