| Into the Arms of Buddha | | | | by delicately charming customers to his |
| | | | postcard rack. From there they get a close-up |
| It was 5 p.m. and I was stalking an angel on | | | | look at his lovely hand sketched works. I |
| temple grounds. As the rain started, I | | | | suspect Lady pulls in a commission. |
| wondered if she would show herself at all. | | | | |
| Chiang Mai's rain patterns are directly | | | | Friendly Little Lek hovers at ordinary in the |
| correlated with the contents of my purse. The | | | | looks department. But every dog is beautiful |
| resulting meteorological phenomena means the | | | | when they sleep in Buddha's arms. |
| rain could stop in a matter of seconds or | | | | |
| pour down for days, depending on whether or | | | | Not all is perfect. When I first saw Hiccup, |
| not I'd brought my umbrella. I had not. | | | | I thought he had just been poisoned. Now I |
| | | | know the perpetual hack must be a medical |
| Squinting into the droplets, I glared up at | | | | problem. A bone lodged somewhere or... I can |
| the massive Chedi, a Lanna-style stupa which | | | | not say. While not overly social, Hiccup is |
| draws in visitors from across Northern | | | | stunningly photogenic. |
| Thailand. Sure it's impressive, but what I | | | | |
| want to know is: How can you have such a | | | | At the front entrance of Chedi Luang are the |
| large building sitting there for 700 years | | | | three Golden Boys. At least I think they are |
| and not install any doors? Surely it has | | | | boys. They rarely stand. This is the first |
| rained here before. | | | | place Khun Soonthree feeds each evening. |
| | | | Looking at the girth of the Golden Boys, it's |
| Where to hide? No way would I take shelter in | | | | a tad surprising there is any food left for |
| the two beautiful little buildings in front | | | | any other temple dogs. |
| of me. Stunningly designed, absolutely! But | | | | |
| each houses a wax replica of an elderly monk | | | | Across from them lives Lucy - the Teddy Bear |
| sitting in a clear box. File them under "way | | | | dog. Had you seen her before her haircut, you |
| too real looking" to pass time with. What can | | | | would have expected to find seams and a price |
| I say? Lack of blinking disturbs me. Beside, | | | | tag. |
| if wax can achieve the lotus position, why | | | | |
| can't I? | | | | No one knows exactly how many dogs live at |
| | | | Chedi Luang, 60+ perhaps. Other notable |
| To escape the deluge, my shelter took the | | | | characters include Cookie Monster, whose |
| form of a gazebo housing three large Buddhas. | | | | cantankerous attitude and dull looks are well |
| I would not be alone. One by one, temple | | | | compensated for by the fact that he is the |
| residents trickled in. The first went | | | | only one who actually likes the dull old dry |
| straight to a mat he obviously kept laid out | | | | dog cookies I bring. Apparently others prefer |
| for these moments. Two more just sat down and | | | | Khun Soonthree's cooking to mine. |
| licked themselves. By the time the skies | | | | |
| opened up completely, three more temple dogs | | | | Living on the north face of the Chedi is Scar |
| had meandered into the shelter. | | | | and her three puppies. Some dogs turn up at |
| | | | the temple pregnant. Still, her puppies |
| Carrying dog cookies is just something I do. | | | | Goldie, Blackie, and Coco Puff are well cared |
| I could explain myself, but people either get | | | | for. |
| it or never will. I tossed five treats out | | | | |
| and turned to the sixth dog, Lek (Thai for | | | | The latest I have notice is named, "Oh Crap, |
| little). She had vanished. Not possible. | | | | Where Are My Ears?" Oh Crap..., or Ears for |
| Would she go back out in the rain? Is there a | | | | short, must be an abandoned pet. He is way |
| dog door in the side of the Chedi? | | | | too forlorn looking. It's as though he |
| | | | desperately wants a master. However, he's |
| I surrendered Lek's cookie to an antique | | | | willing to settle for jerky treats - or |
| looking Weimaraner. Predictably, that's when | | | | bigger ears. |
| I spotted her. Out of the corner of my eye I | | | | |
| noticed her sitting in the right hand of a | | | | Chubby, a pseudo red Chow, and Pigeon Chaser |
| Buddha. She yawned, nestled perfectly into | | | | top off the list of charmers over at Wat Phan |
| Buddha's arms and fell fast asleep. After six | | | | Tau. Pigeon Chaser will pass any domestic |
| years of visiting Wat Chedi Luang, the temple | | | | chicken, but heaven help the wild birds if he |
| still brings a grin to my face. Must be why I | | | | ever sprouts wings. The young monks at Phan |
| keep coming back. | | | | Tau are especially loving toward their |
| | | | smaller population of temple dogs. It is |
| Angels of Chedi Luang | | | | truly a joy to watch them interact. Saffron |
| | | | robes and happy tails flourish side by side. |
| Actually, as the donation box says, "It all | | | | |
| started about ten years ago." Ajarn Rosocon, | | | | The influence Chedi Luang has on animal |
| a teacher at Chiang Mai's Rajabaht | | | | lovers is best summed up by Ann Pierce. A |
| University, decided to make the dogs of Wat | | | | former volunteer with the dogs, Ann has |
| Chedi Luang and the adjoining Wat Phan Tau | | | | returned to California, but wrote this in an |
| her mission. Ajarn is Thai for teacher. Her | | | | email interview: |
| best lessons were taught at this temple | | | | |
| complex. Out of a potential hell these unique | | | | "I cannot begin to articulate the impact the |
| Buddhist sites have been transformed into a | | | | dogs, Ajarn Rosocon, Khun Soonthree, Wat |
| sort of canine Nirvana. | | | | Chedi Luang and all the other people I met |
| | | | through my time in Chiang Mai has had on me. |
| Initially, students and friends helped Ajarn | | | | I'm a very different person because of my |
| Rosocon care for the dogs. They fed, | | | | experiences. My dream is to one day move back |
| sterilized, treated mange, vaccinated... | | | | to Chiang Mai and continue helping the |
| whatever they could manage from the pennies | | | | animals, no matter how frustrating it is at |
| (baht) they scraped together. The group was | | | | times." |
| determined that the dogs of Chedi Luang and | | | | |
| Phan Tau not suffer the life faced by so many | | | | Getting There |
| abandoned and sick temple dogs across SE | | | | |
| Asia. | | | | You can take a Tuk Tuk to visit Wat Chedi |
| | | | Luang. Most drivers know of this popular |
| In 2005 Ajarn Rosocon unexpectedly died. A | | | | temple. On foot enter the old city from the |
| friend, Ann Pierce, and another devoted | | | | famous Tha Phae Gate (east moat gate) and |
| friend/student Khun Soonthree stepped in. | | | | continue straight up Ratchadamnoen Road about |
| Adopting Rosocon's dream as their own, they | | | | four blocks to the first street light - Phra |
| went forward, honoring a friend's memory by | | | | Pokklao Rd. Turn left. You'll immediately see |
| helping the helpless. Ultimately, Khun | | | | the spectacular Teak Wood Temple of Wat Phan |
| Soonthree became in many eyes the "Angel of | | | | Tau on your right. Take a look inside. Wat |
| Chedi Luang." | | | | Chedi Luang's larger complex is located next |
| | | | door. |
| Touring the Temples | | | | |
| | | | Please remember Wats are Buddhist Temples |
| Wat Chedi Luang has become a refuge not just | | | | first and foremost. Dress conservatively and |
| for dogs, but for all animal lovers. If | | | | behave respectfully. They don't have to let |
| travelers become overwhelmed by the sight and | | | | the visitors or the dogs stay. Honor yourself |
| plight of street dogs or simply need a quiet | | | | by the example you set. |
| escape they visit this 'feel good' temple. | | | | |
| Try it yourself. Play tourist, take photos, | | | | How Can You Help? |
| pat a willing pup, or bring a picnic - it's | | | | |
| all good. Then at 6 p.m. watch for the angel. | | | | Visit Chedi Luang, have a great time, then |
| Over a year after Ajarn Rosocon death, Khun | | | | spread the word. |
| Soonthree still feeds and cares for the | | | | |
| temple dogs. | | | | Feeding starts at the main entrance between |
| | | | 5:30 and 6:00 each night. Stop by and show |
| Word has it she never misses a day. She was | | | | Khun Soonthree your appreciation of her work. |
| there in the rainy season when her own home | | | | |
| flooded several times. She was there in the | | | | Please make a donation in one of the temples |
| storm when Lek and I sought shelter. Her | | | | three Dog Donation Boxes, set up around the |
| bright yellow rain slicker and massive pot of | | | | Chedi. Your money goes to food, vaccinations, |
| rice mix carried her through the tempest. If | | | | mange treatment, sterilization of females |
| it is 6 o'clock in Chiang Mai, she's there | | | | (and males when it can be afforded), and |
| right now. | | | | general care. |
| | | | |
| Most people visit Wat Chedi Luang's temple | | | | The main Wat is currently undergoing a |
| complex for the impressive ancient Chedi. In | | | | massive restoration. Making a donation to |
| addition, its beautiful grounds are perfect | | | | support the construction work, the temple and |
| for strolling, quietly removed from the | | | | the temple's school is good for all the |
| city's frenzy. Vendors offer food and cool | | | | residents - two and four legged (or 3.5 - |
| drink. Trees and benches offer hospitable | | | | sorry Stumpy). |
| shade. The adjoining Wat Phan Tau casts a | | | | |
| luminous teak glow over the Buddha images it | | | | Getting the Most from Your Visit! |
| houses. | | | | |
| | | | Never approach any dog that seems reluctant. |
| Better still, the aptly named "Monk Chat" | | | | Get acquainted slowly with the friendly |
| area offer travelers a welcoming invitation | | | | animals. Their continued socialization, or at |
| to pull up a chair and, quite obviously, chat | | | | least apathy to people, keeps them from |
| with monks. A casual atmosphere where | | | | wearing out their welcome at the temple. |
| international visitors just hang out with | | | | |
| Buddhist monks is a fabulous forum for asking | | | | Do not bring too many good tasting cookies: |
| questions and learning about one another's | | | | bacon, pork rings, a side of beef... The |
| lives. In the background the voices of novice | | | | bigger dogs will follow and fights can ensue |
| monks echo outward from classroom windows. | | | | with defenseless smaller ones. Dry old dog |
| | | | cookies rate low on the taste scale. In other |
| Who's Who? | | | | words, they are a perfect cheap way to give |
| | | | snacks to those that will eat them |
| Of course, for a few of us the temples house | | | | eventually. If in doubt, donate the money |
| one more special treasure - the dogs. Not all | | | | instead. It goes to the right place. |
| are social. Not all are loyal. Some are | | | | |
| downright ornery. But to know the "who's who" | | | | Helping Dogs in Chiang Mai |
| of Chedi Luang canines adds to the fun of any | | | | |
| visit. True most tourists barely notice them | | | | If you live in Thailand, consider helping |
| - except to do a quick sidestep away. Like | | | | change the world one temple at a time. Get |
| many regulars, however, I've given most | | | | advice form angels and/or adopt your own |
| nicknames. | | | | temple - with permission of the monks. Make |
| | | | it a family, business, class or club project. |
| Take Ren and Stumpy for example. Ren, a | | | | Work with a reputable vet. Dr. Nook in Chiang |
| diminutive twig of a dog, is the duo's | | | | Mai is aces! |
| personality. Stumpy, who has a front leg | | | | |
| contorted up underneath, provides a bit of | | | | Other organizations that help pets in the |
| size (a valuable asset in the world of temple | | | | Chiangmai area temples include Lanna Dog |
| dog politics) to the team. Side by side the | | | | Rescue and Care for Dogs. Both have web sites |
| pair can be found on a building patio | | | | and are always looking for volunteers or |
| overlooking the Chedi's north face. | | | | donations of funds, foods and materials. |
| | | | |
| Ren works her magic, charming the visitors | | | | In addition, Care for Dogs also has a |
| with enthusiastic greetings. Then Stumpy | | | | wonderful shelter offering adoptions of |
| shows his handicap, Abracadabra! Any traveler | | | | healthy rescued dogs and puppies to good |
| with half a heart makes a beeline for the | | | | homes. Remember, for each new pet that finds |
| ubiquitous '5 baht meat-on-a-stick' vendor. | | | | a family, space is made for a suffering dog |
| "No need to heat it sir." | | | | to be brought into their facility. What a |
| | | | beautiful way to help one - dog at a time. |
| Next, is Lady. She works with a local artist | | | | |